I grew up eating Mineo’s pizza in Squirrel Hill, Pittsburgh. About once a week my father brought home a fresh pie—a real treat, and a legend at Taylor Allderdice.

The story behind it is pure Pittsburgh. Giovanni Mineo arrived from Sicily in 1954, the year before I was born, where he’d worked as a baker. Riding a streetcar down Murray Avenue one day, he spotted an empty storefront at 2130 Murray and claimed it. On September 13, 1958, he opened Mineo’s Pizza House in what was then a mostly Jewish neighborhood—and earned its loyalty, closing every year for the major Jewish holidays. These days, when I want a taste of home, I drive to Giuseppi’s Pizza Plus in Rockville. Walk in and the Steelers memorabilia covering the walls tells you everything.

Sue Feldman opened Giuseppi’s in 1990 with her sons Scott and Eric—all Pittsburgh natives. Scott grew up in Squirrel Hill too, and went to Allderdice like me. But here’s the twist: the recipe isn’t Mineo’s. It comes from Mineo’s old rival, Aiello’s.

Scott worked at Aiello’s as a teenager—a pizzeria Joe Aiello opened in 1978 after leaving Mineo’s himself. When Scott and his mother started Giuseppi’s, the Aiello family mentored them and passed along that same rich, herb-laced, slightly sweet sauce. It’s still what’s in the pies today.